Gain an edge on crowded bands, or, NEScaf(e) anyone?

New England QRP Club's NEScaf audio filter, built, buttoned up, and ready to run.

I don’t care what Punxsutawney Phil says. It’s winter! With one snow storm after another rolling in — even at latitudes where flurries are rare –  there’s plenty of time to:

1. Operate.

2. Break out the soldering iron and whip up a mean mess o’ accessories for the station.

In this case, one project at hand was the New England QRP Club’s spectacular audio filter, which the club christened NEScaf. Check out that link for the full scoop on the kit. This project was ultimately destined for another ham who wanted one but acknowledged that his kit-building days sat squarely in his rear-view mirror.

Warning, Will Robinson: Digression ahead!

For those of you who may be new to this ham-radio stuff, an audio filter is one sweet piece of gear to have, especially if you operate QRP and your radio is not graced with the built-in filters or digital signal-processing tools found in many a higher-power/higher-price radio.

If you’re a Morse-code buff, as I am, you’ve noticed that when you listen to another station, signals at higher or lower frequencies on the band have a different pitch in your speaker or headphones than the station you’ve tuned to.

An audio filter basically stomps down the volume of signals with pitches other than the one you’ve set the filter to emphasize — usually a pitch matching the “spot” tone that your radio produces to ensure your transmitting frequency is the same as the frequency used by the station you’re trying to contact.

This emphasized pitch is the filter’s center frequency. In practice, this “peak” actually may cover a few hundred hertz before the volume of an adjacent signal drops dramatically. You can adjust the width of this peak, allowing you to tailor the amount of filtering you need to the relative presence or absence of stations crammed near the frequency of the station you’ve set your QSL-card sights on.

Very knowledgeable hams will be happy to lay out the superiority of digital signal processing and filtering. I have no doubt they are right. But I had one of those radios once. Frankly, I found an audio filter simpler and more straightforward to use.

And no, I’m not a Luddite. I run Linux on my laptop, have Twitter and Facebook accounts, and bake bread.

And so, on to the NEScaf kit:

Here's what you get for your $30-ish -- neatly packed bags of parts. Pen and case not included.

Hams who have built this kit have housed it in everything from an Altoids tin to the insides of home-brew receivers or transceivers. I happen to like a case I found at an electronics store not far from home — the You-Do-It Electronics Center, or, as some of us say, You Blew It Electronics. Watch your polarity!

The case is cast aluminum, pretty rugged housing for portable operations.  And it’s just the right size to sit nicely on top of my Yaesu FT-817 (or atop an IC-703, for that matter) or the small outboard antenna tuner next to the radio. If you’re interested, the case is a Hammond 1590BBBK.

From the foregoing paragraph, you can perhaps sense that while I’m building this for someone else, I’ve got another stashed away for me!

And now for some solder smoke:

1. NEScaf board with the power-supply stage installed.

An experienced kit-builder can knock this puppy off in a day without breaking a sweat. I’ve built one of these before (and foolishly included it with a radio I sold). I tackled this latest project while on a week’s vacation recently — one where the to-do list of non-ham activities was long and included much quality time with a snow blower and snow shovel. So I built the kit in stages. And yes, those little tan capacitors really are the size of well-fed ticks!

2. NEScaf board with the rest of the components on board.

I put the pedal to the metal, or, I should say, the iron to the solder for construction increment No. 2. I had promised to finish the filter by date sort of certain, and I was falling behind schedule.

3. The case for the NEScaf filter, with controls and jacks mounted.

Though the case has thick walls, it’s not hard to work. The kit comes with a garden-variety green light-emitting diode as an “it’s on, oh Great Kahuna” power indicator. But I had a nicely pimped out LED in the junk box, so I used it instead.

When I’m working with cases, especially cases as nicely finished as this one, I put a old hand towel under it to minimize scratches during construction. Once this filter hits the field, it probably will get more than its fair share of scrapes and scratches, so let’s at least give it a clean start!

4. NEScaf board and battery mounted and final wiring complete.

Oh man, the end is in sight!

But wait! This just in from the Why Didn’t I Think of This Earlier Department:

Dear WDIToTED: I’m trying to install a battery clip, which uses a very short screw, lock washer, and nut, and I’m trying to secure small nylon nuts to circuit-board mounting screws very near the end of the case. I have big hands and no nut driver short enough or narrow enough to fit the small spaces involved. All of the hardware is 4-40. What to do?

Dear WTD: Grab one of the longest 4-40 screws in your junk box, feed the screw half way into the nut, then press this makeshift nut driver against the end of the actual mounting screw. Gently turn the mounting screw with a screwdriver until both screw ends share the nut. The nut will have just enough purchase on the mounting screw to allow you to remove the “helper” screw and use you finger to hold the nut in place while you finished the tightening process.

Rube Goldberg? Yep. But it solved what was becoming a frustrating problem as I tried to mount tiny things in tight spaces with XL-glove hands.

Once I licked that problem and finished connecting the circuit board to the controls, jacks, LED, and switch, I took the filter up to my radio, powered it up, set the center frequency for 600Hz and the amp section for no gain (less shock to the ear drums when you wear headphones and power up the filter). All was right with the world. QRM be gone, or at least mostly gone!

Now, if you’ll excuse me, I think I’ll head back to the basement la-BOR-atory and start in on my own filter.

Hmmm…I do have that memory-keyer kit to tackle as well.

Aw, heck, let it snow!

15 Responses to “Gain an edge on crowded bands, or, NEScaf(e) anyone?”

  1. The NE/scaf filter has to be the best investment I ever made to ham radio.
    It will take hash,buzzing,and a 1 KW starion and bury all that trash so you can work QRPp.
    It turns old noisy ris to ones sounding like modern day $3,000.00 rigs.
    I will have 2 more coming this month.Oh yeah,This site is nice also.
    Keep up the excellent work.
    BOB
    AF2Q
    The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday

  2. Cal KF7ET Says:

    Just got the scaf hooked up and can’t believe the difference it made on the FT817nd. Thanks Pete

  3. This little gem makes my Sierra sing! Sadly, it is currently a bit ill and needs some attention, but with so few parts, cannot take long to fix, eh? Enjoy it! Great addition to the shack and portable ops.
    72,
    Kelly K4UPG PB #173

  4. [...] From the key of W1PNS Dedicated to the science, art, and magic of amateur radio « Gain an edge on crowded bands, or, NEScaf(e) anyone? [...]

  5. Great Job Pete, thanks for a good article.

  6. Chris Says:

    It looks like you decide not to install the 7809 and directly power the circuit with a 9V battery?

    k4fh

    • Well, Chris, it goes something like this.

      I installed the 7809 *and* the battery here, based on personal experience with a NEScaf filter I built for myself. I initially set mine up for power from my shack supply. But I also wanted to take it on outings where I’d be operating off batteries. So I ginned up a 9v clip with a coaxial power connector on the other end and used that while operating portable.

      Now, buried deep in the manual is the statement that if you intend to use an internal 9v battery, you should ditch the 7809. I came across that statement only after finishing this, my second filter. An email to one of the folks behind the kit asking about the battery garnered a reply that said it wouldn’t hurt, but that the filter configured for a 12vdc external supply draws enough current to draw a 9vdc battery down pretty quickly. That said, I had my filter in the field and ran it for a full day from the battery with no trouble. So wired for a 12vsdc supply, you can still get at least a day’s use out of the filter on a 9vdc battery.

      Sorry for the long-winded reply…

  7. Jim WA2OQJ Says:

    Pete I have no filtering whatsoever, after reading this and the others comments I think I am going to have to take a serious look at this…I think I can put this thing together or at least make an honest attempt at it! Thanks for the great review!

    Jim WA2OQJ

  8. [...] Back in February, I recounted a successful encounter with a great little project kitted by the New England QRP Club — its NEScaf audio filter. [...]

  9. [...] yes, for anyone who took a look at the NEScaf filter project, the case I used for the keyer should be familiar. Hammond strikes [...]

  10. David J. Wilcox K8WPE Says:

    Pete,

    Can you show me how you hooked up a 9 volt battery AND the 12 volt input socket at the same time. From what I can see on the NEQRP site one person states how to just take out the regulator and jumper it but your pictures show both.

    Thanks,

    Dave K8WPE

    • Hi Dave,

      I replied via email but posted here as well so anyone else interested could get the info.

      Seen from the rear, the terminals of the DC coaxial socket are arranged like this:

      1 | |2

      ——
      3

      This doesn’t reproduce quite right, as it did in my email, so 1 is left, 2 is right, and 3 is bottom center.

      The socket acts like a switch. But unlike the way we wire most switches, here the switching is done on the negative side of the circuit. When no plug is inserted in the DC socket, a contact inside the socket and associated with terminal 1 touches barrel of the plug, which is negative. When the DC plug is fully inserted, the contact for terminal 1 gets pushed away from the plug’s barrel. The barrel then touches the contact associated with terminal 3, the “new” negative terminal.

      So, you would connect the positive wire from the battery to terminal 2,
      which in turn gets connected to the power portion of the DPDT switch. The battery’s black wire goes to terminal 1. A separate wire should run from terminal 3 to the negative hole in the circuit board. Terminals 1 and 3 should not be connected together.

      Now, what the kit instructions wait until too late to tell you is that ideally, you should run the filter off of a battery or external 12v supply, but not both. The filter will work with both wired in. But the voltage regulator draws enough juice to substantially shorten the battery’s life. I’ve asked that they revise the instructions to make that point at the outset, where they list things you should know before building. It seems to me that this is an important decision that a builder must make before heating up the soldering iron. So far, I’ve not heard back.

      I wired the second filter I built (and blogged on here) for battery and external after my experience with the first one of these I pulled together. After finishing filter No. 1, I wanted to take it into the field and didn’t have my 12v battery set up for more than one connection. So I bought a 9v battery clip, put a DC coax plug on the end, and ran the filter off of the battery. The battery lasted from about 10 a.m. until take-down at 5 p.m., and the filter was still going strong. It would take some experimentation to find out how long a typical 9v battery will last this way. But it does work.

      My third filter is 12v only, and I’m repackaging my 12 battery for portable use in a way that will allow multiple connections.

      Hope this all is clear enough…

  11. [...] black box — maybe some accessories to go with the QRP radio, such as an outboard keyer or my NEScaf audio filter. And just maybe, a place to connect the A & A Engineering battery charger kit I’m [...]

  12. [...] black box — maybe some accessories to go with the QRP radio, such as an outboard keyer or my NEScaf audio filter. And just maybe, a place to connect the A & A Engineering battery charger kit I’m [...]

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